DIY Timber Floating Shelf Coat Rack
Step by step instructions to easily make this floating shelf coat rack.
G'day guys, another Friday / another DIY!
Thank you everyone for tuning in, we are loving bringing these woodworking projects to you each week - thanks for all of your feedback recently and sharing your DIY ideas with us! We've made a list and will work our way through them!
This week we decided to create a simple timber floating shelf coat rack. This is a great woodworking project for an entranceway, kitchen, bathroom or kids room!
Enjoy!
AL + IMO
“This is a great project for any room in your house. ”
TOOLS
TAPE MEASURE
PENCIL
DRILL
NAIL GUN OR HAMMER
SANDER OR SANDPAPER
SANDPAPER
DROP SAW
NAIL PUNCH
PROTECTIVE GEAR
SAFETY GLASSES
EAR PROTECTION
TIMBER
For this project we used 15mm Blackbutt hardwood flooring and 25mm Victorian Ash hardwood dowel.
BACKBOARD & SHELF - 950mmL x 115mmW x 15mm
DOWEL PEGS - 7 x 25mm Dowel x 100mmL
HARDWARE
NAILS
SCREWS
MATERIALS
HARD WAX OIL
WOOD PUTTY OF A SIMILAR COLOUR (OPTIONAL)
Step 1.
Because I used some scrap floorboards I ripped my edges down and plained them smooth.
Step 2.
I measured and cut my shelf and backboard to length 950mm. I then worked out how many dowel pegs I wanted for my shelf - I decided on 7.
Step 3.
To work out the length of my dowel pegs I measured the width of my top shelf timber and minused the thickness of the backboard so the pegs were even with my top shelf.
I made a mark on my drop saw and cut each dowel to length. 100mm
Step 4.
I sanded my shelf and backboard smooth with my orbital sander and then using hand sandpaper sanded my dowel - rounding off the outside edge of the dowel only.
Step 5.
I measured and marked my dowel spacings and with a set square and marked my centres. I pre-drilled on the front side of my backboard and in the centre of my dowels - making sure to drill straight.
100mm in from each end and then 125mm spacings.
Step 6.
I flipped over my backboard and using my spade-bit I drilled counter-sink holes where my pre-drilling holes had come through.
Step 7.
To attach the dowel I smeared a small amount of glue on the end. Using my drill I screwed through my backboard and as the screw poked through I lined my dowel and screwed it tight. I repeated this with the remaining dowels, making sure the end grain was vertical as I wanted all of them to match.
Step 8.
To attach the top shelf I glued, clamped and nailed it into place. I left it to dry with the clamps holding it in position and once dry I punched the nails in with my nail punch. I then gave the top and back a light sand.
Step 9.
I sealed our shelf with a hard wax oil that brings out the natural feature in the timber, once dry I filled the nail holes with similar coloured putty, gave it a light sand and added a second coat for a silky smooth finish.
Step 10.
Finally I attached the shelf to or wall, making sure to screw into the studs behind so it has a sturdy fixing and ensuring it was level
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